September 2026, two days after Rosh Hashanah. Since the war closed the airspace, Hasidic pilgrims go home from Uman overland, by train across Ukraine. I got on in the middle of the route, in Lviv. It was very early, so I fell asleep, and then suddenly woke up to voices, loud, all together. I went out into the corridor and there they were, standing at every window, praying out loud. At first I didn't pay much attention. I knew where they were coming from, so I went back to my compartment. But then the always curious portrait photographer in me woke up, and I had my camera with me. I couldn't sit still, and after some hesitation I went to ask if I could take a few photos. They gave me permission and kept praying.
